Pet Universe

Lasse Kohau asked:


How to avoid an attack from a dog !

 

A dog may be a man’s best friend, but even a friendly dog, can turn into a monster in a few seconds. No matter how much we train them, so long as nature is nature, there will always be an underlying threat between dog and man. In fact, dog attacks account for almost 5 million injuries in the U.S. every year, and attacks are rapidly growing in Europe as well, especially among the most dangerous ones, like pitbulls, and rottweilers. Nonetheless, dogs are among the easiest and most loyal pets - you and your family can get. In general, they are most playful and funny creatures and a real family member, and the loyal ones will risk their lives to guard their family and trainer.

Responsible owners and non dog-owners, must prepare themselves with defense techniques in the situation, that the dog decides to attack. Everyone in the family, who shares their home with a four-legged friend - should know basics to diffuse an attack situation in a calm and effectively way with minimal injury to both man and dog(s).

 

TIPS FOR DEFENDING YOURSELF, WHEN A DOG ATTACKS.

 

1.) Avoid the attack

 

It has been said many times, that prevention is better than a cure, so before you find out how to defend yourself from a dog attack, it’s important to look at ways - you can avoid attack completely.

 

After all, who wants to wrestle with a four-legged beast at 50 kilo, when you could avoid the attack from a start.

A) Avoid intruding on a dog’s territory. No matter how ignorant you’re willing to be about their characteristics, dogs are one of the most territorial animals on earth, and will lash out if they think you’re moving in on their territory. It is an absolutely NO GO. In this instance, never approach an unattended dog; odds are - that the dog has marked his patch and, invariably, you’ll be stepping on it. If this happens, slowly edge out of the dog’s personal space, and don’t make any sudden movements to suggest that you’re a threat. Leave the dogs territory without saying anything or looking at the dog. Eventually, step backwards to show the dog – i´m leaving fright now.

B) Make sure, that the dog knows who you are before attempting to handle it. Move carefully toward the animal and allow him or her to sniff you. Many dogs attack on reflex because they have been crept up on. Establish your presence, make friends with the dog, and avoid this common pitfall. Don’t either disturb the dog, while eating or drinking. Respect the animal as a human.

C) Don’t tease the dog or get it excited; let sleeping dogs lie on their own. Female dogs, that just have become mothers are particularly on guard; exercise extreme caution in her presence.

Look for warning signs at the dogs eyes, mouth, and body.

 

Growling is typically one of the first signs, that a dog is likely to attack. In addition, if the dog is drooling from the mouth, and the eyes are wild with rage, you can pretty much assume that an attack is likely. The body of the dog functions in a similar way to a human, in fact - it can be used to identify mood and emotion. Check to see if the body is tense, hackles (the area between his shoulders and tail) are up, ears are erect, and if his tail is held high and wagging faster than normal.

 

2.) DO NOT:

 

A) Do not look directly into an angry dog’s eyes, which is seen as an aggressive behavior and will almost certainly provoke an attack. Do not EVER allow a dog to move behind you; if a dog begins to circle you, this could be a sign of an impending attack, always front the dog to control the situation. The bottom line is that it’s easier for the dog to attack you from behind, so don’t make yourself an easy target.

B) Do not try to run away from the dog, as almost every dog can easily outrun humans + you turn the situation into a hunt for prey. Don’t click the killer and hunting instinct of the dog.

 

C) If the dog is still a threat and attacks, avoid wildly kicking or punching it. It wont help you further. Although running away or lashing out are instinctual reactions, it’s important to reign these in; they will antagonize the dog and lessen your chances of survival or getting away unscathed.

 

DO THIS:

 

If you feel threatened by a dog, stand absolutely still and always face it/Front it. So stand strong, show no fear to the animal, put your hands by your side, and wait to see how the dog reacts. Sometimes it just gives up and run away. If you are scared, and the dog smells it, it most likely could be an appetizer for an attack.

It’s often a good idea to place something between you and the animal. Do break the dog’s direct line of attack with a “weapon”, and even if the dog attack, it will get a mouthful of something other than your flesh.

To diffuse the escalating situation, speak slowly and calmly to the dog. Again, avoid eye contact and focus on his ear or tail while you whisper something like ”good boy” or “go home now.” Ease the dog into a sense of calm and security, and it will hopefully turn and walk away.

If the dog do attack and takes you to the floor, immediately curl into a ball, cover your face and neck with your hands, play dead, and avoid screaming. The dog will soon lose interest and go on to find something or somebody else to play with.

 

PLEASE DO REMEMBER: There’s no such thing as a dog that doesn’t bite, and while they are good company, they are also unpredictable animals, which makes them dangerous.

FINAL: Every dog is different and has a different temper - and no technique is 100 procent effective in any situation. To begin with, there are trained and untrained dogs, there are aggressive and non-aggressive dogs, which react differently in an attack situation. The same is true with different species and genders. Man and dog alike run on instinct in intense situations, and no matter how much we know, we still may succumb to human nature and do the wrong thing. Nevertheless, if you are armed with the right information and a calm personality, you’ll have the best chance of emerging from an attack with little or no injury.

 

SHOW THE DOG RESPECT AND THE DOG WILL ALSO SHOW YOU RESPECT.

 

 



Vicki

mayra asked:


People love keeping dogs as pets. This is because dogs prove to be best companions and also make your home a lovely place to live in. However, there are several problems one requires to face with dogs. One of these includes aggressive behavior. Dog aggression is very common. However, this often proves to be a problem for those who live nearby, pass by your home or visit your place. Dogs with their aggressive behavior can prove to be extremely violent and dangerous to other people, dogs and animals.

There are several situations that make dogs behave aggressively. One of the most natural circumstances that make dogs behave aggressively is when they feel threatened.

To deal with dog aggression, you need to understand this behavior of your dog. Several types of aggression influence dogs and these depend on the situation. Dominance aggression is one of the most common types of dog aggression. Under this condition, a dog feels that he is the strongest and most dominant creature around. Fighting dogs are most affected by this type of aggression.

Another type of aggression dog’s exhibit is when they feel some danger around them. Whenever a dog feels threatened, he tends to attack. Remember that your actions such as clapping, raising hands or tapping his head may be taken as an interruption to his dominance.

Self defense is the main issue that makes dogs aggressive in nature. Remember that dogs always retaliate in their defense.

Dogs have a ‘territorial sense’. If someone tries to invade their place, they become aggressive in nature.

There are several ways to deal with a dog’s aggressive nature. Once you are aware of your dog’s aggressive behavior (the reasons that make your dogs aggressive). You should try to avoid those situations that may turn your dog aggressive. Never try to threaten, hurt or make them feel insecure. Also advice others to do same.

Try to seek professional help if situations go out of your hands. This is very important so that your dog doesn’t harm others. Confine your dog in a cage and don’t let him out if your dog becomes too aggressive.

Obedience training will help your dog to curb his aggression. You need to communicate with your dog regularly. Take him out for a walk and let him familiarize with other people and animals. Don’t tie your dog for a long time.

Play with your dog and try to spend some time with him. If you are not sure how to train your dog, you can seek professional help. You can hire a coach who can obedience train your dog.

The best thing is to make your friends, neighbors and visitors understand that your dog needs respect. Ask them not to threaten your dog or invade his privacy.

Aggressive behavior of a dog can be really harmful. You need to be really careful about your dog’s behavior in order to save your neighbors from being bitten or threatened.

You should also not punish your dog unnecessarily. Appreciate your dog whenever he curbs his aggressive behavior.



Curtis

David Beart asked:


One of the many things you may want to get for your dog when starting to train them is a good, sturdy dog training harness, as part of your dog supplies to have. A good harness should fit comfortably on your dog and have enough padding to prevent any escaping or injuries that could occur while wearing the harness. Having your dog wear a harness is a way to keep better control when walking your dog. Pulling a dog by the neck using a choke chain is really uncomfortable. Also a tugging dog will prevent itself from getting enough oxygen when it’s pulling on the lead, and we certainly do not want that! You do not want the dog to get scared of wearing a collar or harness because of something like that happening. Do not get frustrated or tug on the harness. Heel is pretty easy to teach with the correct method. Tugging on the harness will hurt the dog and get him confused. This is the same with yelling. In taking your dog for walk and in training your dog, there is much more considered necessary than just a good dog trainer and an obedient and intelligent dog. You will need a lot of dog training accessories, but generally the most popular of all of them will be the dog training harness.

A dog training harness was made to take the place of dog collars. Usually, time-honored dog collars can cause irritation, choking, and coughing for a dog when the pressure is applied if the collar is pulled while training or walking. Dog training harnesses help your dog escape such dreadful circumstances. A dog harness is placed over the dog’s upper body such as the shoulders and ribcage. Its grip extends to the dog’s front legs. As a result, the dog escapes choking since the pressure exerted while pulling is evenly distributed throughout the upper body of the dog. The pressure is then relieved and the dog escapes irritations caused by pulling. Also, the dog can freely bark, catch and track things without the restraints from the collar irritation. These harnesses come in various designs and sizes. This wide variety is one of the reasons why many dog owners find it very difficult to choose the right dog training harness for their lovable pooch. Regardless of the size however, the most important rule in choosing the right harness is to make sure you put function and not fashion first. Make sure that the dog training harness fully serves its purpose, that is to be able help the keeper/trainer control, guide or manage the dog’s behavior. The most popular types of dog training harnesses are those that are made of leather. For dogs that belong to the large breeds, the commonly used harness for them will be made of more durable materials. Another factor to take into consideration when choosing the right dog training harness is the dog’s temperament and breed.

Comfort for both the dog and the trainer is a vital factor to be considered as well. The training harness should be one that the dog wants to use. It should be lightweight and it should be hypoallergenic to the dog. It should not pose any threat to the health and the growth of your dog. In addition to that, the right harness should be able to ease your problem in controlling a rather stubborn pooch when exposed to strangers or when you are outdoors. The right dog training harness is often expected to be the favorite training equipment of both the dog and the trainer. Last but not the least; a dog harness should be durable and strong. It should be able to handle the pressure of puppies that are hard to control, or those who simply have aggressive behaviors, or who get easily over excited. It should also be able to resist the pressure and strength exerted by larger dog breeds. In order to start getting your dog used to wearing one, it helps to put him in the harness to get the feel of it. Let him wear it while you walk him on leash the first time. Do not leave a young dog, or any dog for that matter, unattended with a harness; they have a tendency to chew through them, or get themselves caught on something and into trouble. This really is one of the more safer methods of training one can use with their dog, and a dog that is safer and happier will learn better in the end.



Lauren

Mary Beth asked:


Do you have a destructive chewer? Does it seem there is no end to your dog’s energy? Do you feel guilty leaving your dog home alone for hours? Does your dog soil in the house despite all housebreaking efforts?

Rest assured, you are not alone. More importantly, there are solutions to your problems.

While there is an abundance of information about these common issues, many dog parent’s still fail in their efforts.

At Canine Kingdom, we know this is not the dog parent’s fault, because the right advice and the most effective products are difficult to find.

For example, studies have shown that when chewing is directed toward objects that are acceptable, less energy is left for objects that are not, such as the leg of your antique dining table. Many dog parents do realize that chew toys help to reduce the amount of chewing on the ‘wrong’ things, such as shoes and fingers. However, many dog parents do not solve chewing problems with toys because they find that either their dogs are not ‘interested’ in the chew toys, or they chew them up in 30 seconds, still ready to take on the rest of the home.

At Canine Kingdom we provide problem-solving products that work, and our customer service team will make sure that you know how to use our products, and are completely satisfied with your results.

Proven training advice coupled with the right tools enables dogs and people to live together in harmony.

And so…Canine Kingdom announces the Top Ten Problems - and provides the Best Products for solving them.

#1 Chewing

KONG

The Kong is the safest, most chew-proof item on the market today and has received the Canine Kingdom Seal of Approval.

Think you know about Kongs? Think again! Many people don’t know the clever ways Kong Toys solve serious chewing problems.

Kongs can be stuffed with delectables – dogs just can’t resist them. If you freeze a stuffed Kong it can take hours for even an avid chewer to get to every tidbit in the Kong. Hours of fulfilling entertainment – hours that don’t include munching on the couch pillows.

Tired dogs are less likely to chew on your new Dolce & Gabbana pumps. The Kong has been designed to entice your dog’s innate prey drive. When you throw a Kong it hits the ground and bounces around unpredictably. Bring out the hunter in your dog. A Kong on a rope is perfect for fun fetching and a proven way to burn up excess energy.

See our article on exactly how to use the Kong Food puzzle in our Protocol Center.

Give your dog a chew toy that is safe and as indestructible as possible. There are so many chew toy products on the market today. Many of them can be dangerous and even fatal. Despite what the manufacturers state on packaging, all chew toys should be inspected regularly for damage and wear. Always choose a chew toy that is appropriately sized for your dog. A toy that is too small can be swallowed and cause choking. Powerful chewers can devour some inappropriate chew toys, possibly resulting in impactions and digestive tract perforations.

#2 Too much energy!

The Long Lead

Most dogs have more energy than their parents would like. Unspent energy can lead to unwanted behaviors such as jumping, chewing, digging, and barking. Exercising your dog on a regular basis is as good for your dog as it is for you. Learn your dog’s optimal exercise level. When your dog is relaxed, he has reached that state.

Many pet parents are limited in their choice of safe exercise areas. Likewise, most dogs do not have a totally reliable recall if they are let loose in an area with many distractions. Using a long lead ensures your dog’s safety yet allows him to burn up energy. Dogs can jump, sniff, run and explore without the restraint of a short leash.

When learning to use a long lead, it is best to start out in quiet, large, tree-less areas. Soon, your dog will learn the distance of his freedom.

Incorporate some sit-stay lessons into your walks. A thinking dog uses up as much energy as a running dog. Toss a Kong a few feet from your dog while in a sit-stay position. Release him to fetch after a few seconds. Treats and verbal praise follow. Great fun for you and your dog and an enjoyable way to teach her an important control lesson.

#3 Pulling on a Leash

Gentle Leader Easy Walk Harness

Far too many dog parents forego walking with their dog because of leash pulling. Neck collars, despite their design and material, all put pressure on the dog’s trachea and may cause permanent physical damage. Traditional harnesses, that have leash connections on the top of the harness on the dog’s back, can actually encourage dogs to pull harder because of the opposition reflex. That is the reflex that makes sled dogs do what they do—pull.

The Gentle Leader Easy Walk™ Harness redirects the pressure through the unique front leash attachment. A patent pending martingale closure tightens slightly across the chest and shoulder blades when your dog attempts to pull forward. When your dog slows down and stops pulling, reward him with treats and verbal encouragements.

When training your dog to walk with a loose leash, first, make sure you run out as much energy as possible in your backyard or home. Initially, put the leash on your dog in your home and ‘take your walk’ around the house. Reward him with treats and praise when he walks without leash tension. Gradually move your walks to quiet areas where there are few distractions such as other dogs or critters. Repeatedly reward your dog when he is walking with a loose leash. Increasingly, walk to places where your dog will see or meet other dogs, people or wild animals. Remember to continue the treats and praise. Soon, both you and your dog will enjoy your walks together – without pain or distress to either of you.

The unique design of the Gentle Leader Easy Walk Harness is easy to put on and has easy adjustment buckles to ensure a proper fit.

#4 Barking

Dog Door

‘Nuisance’ barking, caused by loneliness, boredom, stress from being home alone, or ‘commenting’ on the goings on around the house is often relieved with the ability to go in and outside, at will, to a safe and secure enclosed yard.

There are many dog doors to choose from. We chose the Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door, as its unique technology allows your pet to enter and exit safely, without the threat of other animals or people using the door. The Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door uses a small infra-red collar tag that signals the door to unlock for your pet and only your pet. The Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door locks in both directions preventing young children from leaving the home and other animals from entering or leaving. It runs on batteries so if there is a power outage, the door still works.

Allowing your dog access to the inside as well as outside, combined with a relaxing in-home setting, a digging pit outside, and a NON-citronella bark collar are often successful in stopping barking problems. For this and more information on dogs home alone, don’t miss our E-book “Creating a Better Life for the Home Alone Dog”.

#5 Housetraining

Penthouse Potty

In certain situations, a dog just must have an indoor toilet. Is your dog getting on in age and having ‘mistakes’? Is your little dog sometimes unreliable in his housetraining habits? Do you live in a 6th floor walkup and the thought of a dog walk at 2:00 a.m. is not that appealing? Has a new puppy joined your household?

The Penthouse Potty is the answer to these problem situations and more. Dogs can ‘hold it’ for only so long. So many variables determine how often a dog must eliminate. What is known about dogs is that they do determine where to ‘go’ by their sense of smell. If a dog learns to eliminate in the home on your Oriental rug or on your teak floors, he may very well choose that spot again and again because it has been ‘marked’ with his odor.

Train your dog to go in one place when the need arises – the Penthouse Potty. If you know there will be times when your dog may not get to the outdoors to eliminate, consider the Penthouse Potty. Your dog can happily go to an ‘approved’ area and the rest of your home will stay fresh and clean.

#6 Arthritis

Pet Wellness Bed

There’s no reason for any dog to suffer from the pain of arthritis. Pain can have a tremendous impact on your dog’s quality of life.

A heated dog bed? Absolutely! Heat and Massage make this therapeutic bed the best choice for arthritis pain all year long. Many arthritic dogs show increased signs of pain when the temperatures dip, humidity rises or barometric pressure drops. The plushy loft, the gentle heat and the massage functions of the Pet Wellness Bed provide a comfortable and therapeutic refuge for your dog.

The first thing you notice about our Wellness Bed is the 3″ thick orthopedic foam. When your dog plops down for a nap, his body is cushioned, protecting further damage to the joints and bones. The gentle heat relaxes tense muscles that surround achy joints, helping your dog’s pain related stress.

Massage is an effective way to manage arthritis pain. The massage feature of the Wellness Bed can help improve joint movement, relax tense muscles, and stimulate the flow of blood and nutrients to the skin and underlying tissues. What’s more, it just feels good, and the relaxation it brings can help break the cycle of pain and stress that often goes along with arthritis The Pet Wellness Bed provides three beneficial features that will enhance your dog’s life – cushiony supportive softness, gentle heat and therapeutic massage.

See your dog’s health care professional to learn about arthritis and forms of treatment and palliative care available today.

#7 Boredom

KongTime

Sometimes, you must leave your dog home alone. Wouldn’t it be great if you— and your dog—could feel good about it? Canine Kingdom introduces KongTime—all day entertainment for the home-alone dog.

Stuff soft foods inside a Kong Toy and what do you have? Magic. Your dog will happily chew and lick the Kong Toy, trying to get out every last morsel. It’s fun!

Our clients call KongTime ‘Doggy Daycare in a Box’. It was developed for those times when you will be away from home, and your dog, longer than usual. One food-filled Kong just won’t provide enough quality entertainment for your dog. Wouldn’t it be great if a neighbor came by and gave your dog another food-filled Kong to keep him busy?

KongTime automatically dispenses, at a predetermined time, food-filled Kong Toys while you are away. KongTime entertains your dog and gives your dog something to look forward to while you are away.

#8 Dry Skin

Drinkwell Fountain

Many pet parents are concerned about their dog’s dry skin and the resulting itching and flaking. The causes of a dog’s dry skin, just like ours, are primarily environmental.

In general, skin—ours and our dogs’—is driest in winter, when temperatures and humidity levels plummet. But the reverse may be true if you live in desert regions, where summer temperatures can top 110 degrees and humidity levels sink to 10 percent or less. Central air and heating, wood-burning stoves, space heaters and fireplaces all reduce humidity and dry your skin and your dog’s.

We all know that drinking up to eight glasses of water is recommended for people. Water is essential to all living beings—including our dogs. But, like us, dogs sometimes just don’t drink enough water. Without proper hydration, a dog’s skin, just like ours, gets dry and flaky. How can you entice your dog to drink more water?

In nature, moving water is much fresher than stagnant water. The movement constantly breaks the surface tension of the water and draws oxygen from the air into the water. This process is called aeration and it makes water more appealing to drink. Dogs may be drawn by instinct to moving water for this reason.

Some dogs drink water with gusto. But, others have to be coaxed to take just a sip. Developed by a veterinarian for her kidney compromised cat, the DRINKWELL® PET FOUNTAIN filters and aerates continuously moving water to keep it much fresher than standing bowl water – and much more enticing.

#9 Lost Dogs

Roameo GPS Dog Location System

Few situations can be as terrifying as learning that your dog is lost.

Canine Kingdom recommends that you always have ID tags on your dog’s collar and your dog is microchipped. Now that there is a universal system for detecting microchips, there is a much better chance a vet or shelter will find it. Be aware that both tools are passive in finding your lost dog. You are dependent on someone finding, catching, reading your dog’s ID, and returning him to you. Many people who find “stray dogs” keep them, assuming their dog parents don’t want them.

Now there is a far more reliable way to find a lost dog.

GPS technology now enables you to take an active approach to finding your dog. The RoamEO GPS dog location system tracks your lost dog’s movements on an easy to read hand-held screen. You will know where your dog is immediately if he or she escapes from your care.

Canine Kingdom applauds RoamEO for providing a user friendly, no-hidden-cost-approach to actively find lost dogs. There are no other tools to buy, no set up fees, monthly fees, “find” fees or service charges.

The RoamEO has many features, including the ability to track up to three dogs at the same time. The RoamEO also allows you to set up a safe area for your dog. If he leaves the perimeter the RoamEO alerts you immediately.

And, at Canine Kingdom, we offer the lowest cost available.

#10 Dog Fights!

Premier SprayShield

We speak to so many dog parents who describe frightening incidents where they and their dogs have been attacked by loose, marauding dogs. Do not allow yourself, members of your family, or your dog to become a victim of a dog attack. Take a proactive approach and always carry Premier SprayShield.

Many preparations, such as pepper spray and taser-type devices are sold as protection from attacking or threatening animals. But, many trainers agree that some of these products may actually antagonize aggressive animals and they can cause bodily harm.

Stop an attacking animal in its tracks with this highly effective, safe and humane spray. The citronella formula halts low-to-medium-level aggression from dogs, cats, snakes, raccoons, opossums, etc., without harmful side effects. It also won’t injure you, your family or your dog if it accidentally gets sprayed into eyes.

#11 Bonus! Jumping up

FREE!

- Don’t knee or yell at your dog when he greets you with a jump, simply turn away and ignore him until he sits, then slowly greet him, pulling back your greeting if he escalates his excitement.

Want more? Expert advice is available 24/7. For tips, challenges, and tried-and-true solutions, visit us at caninekingdom.com!



Ray

Craig Elliott asked:


Similar to a human’s joints, a dog’s joints are important parts of their body. A dog’s joints, whether it’s the ball and socket joints, the hinge joints or the gliding joints are all imperative to their mobility. Without joints a dog would be unable to move since they provide flexibility which enables their legs to bend, their hips to move, etc. If a dog owner wishes to see their pet living a healthy, mobile life, it’s essential to do everything possible to ensure joint health for dogs.

Many dogs unfortunately develop arthritis. Actually there are several conditions dogs develop which are often listed under arthritis. These conditions include degenerative joint disease, hip dysplasia, inflammatory joint disease and osteoarthritis. These are the names pet owners will often hear regarding joint problems with their dogs. Each of these conditions can cause severe pain for a dog. Each of these conditions involves a dog’s joints and so it is important for dog owners to take the necessary steps to ensure joint health for their dogs.

As a dog owner, how do you ensure joint health for your dog? First of all it’s important that dogs have regular examinations by a licensed veterinarian. Veterinarians are trained to recognize specific signs and symptoms related to dog arthritis and joint disease. There are certain breeds that are prone to poor joint health and since a vet would be aware of this, they could monitor the dog. If problems with joint health are caught early enough they can be treated and the dog will likely enjoy a long life without much difficulty.

Because you, the owner spend the most time with your dog, it’s imperative that you do your part to ensure your dog’s joint health. Besides taking them to the vet you must make sure they receive regular exercise to keep their joints in good working order. Activity will make sure the dog’s joints are being used. Like a piece of machinery, if unused a dog’s joints may eventually stop working properly.

Your dog’s diet is very important to ensure joint health. There are special diets designed specifically for aging dogs to guard against joint problems. There are foods designed for dogs with arthritis. These foods contain necessary ingredients to prevent and/or help joint problems caused by arthritis.

Dogs right from birth require plenty of TLC. They also need certain vitamins and minerals to maintain a healthy body. It is recommended that dog owners should add a multivitamin supplement to their dog’s daily diet. Of course the amount, dose and type of multivitamin would depend on the dog’s age and size. As dogs grow older they are at a greater risk of developing joint disease. For this reason special attention should be paid to the dog’s diet including vitamin supplements. Chondroitin and glucosamine are believed to be beneficial in treating and relieving symptoms of dog arthritis and joint problems. These are just two of the recommended supplements for aging dogs. There are many other vitamin and multivitamin supplements on the market today which can help ensure joint health for dogs.

Although pet owner’s love their dogs and assume their efforts are enough to protect their health, often they aren’t. A dog owner might buy what they think is the perfect food while in fact the food may not contain anything useful to their dog. It’s important that a dog owner, especially as the dog ages, research and ask questions about necessary changes required for aging dogs. Nobody wants to see their dog in anguish and pain. Since dogs aren’t verbally capable of sharing their feelings, often they may be suffering silently. At times even the dog may not know there are problems with their joints. For example the cartilage that protects the joints can deteriorate. Because cartilage has little or no nerves, degeneration can take place without the dog feeling anything. This cartilage degeneration can be going on for a long time before it is actually discovered.

Learning details such as these are important for any dog owner. It puts them in a better position regarding taking preventative steps. To ensure joint health for dogs owners should always do their utmost to find preventative measures. Owning a dog is so much more than feeding them and giving them a warm place to sleep. Owning a dog is a major responsibility. These innocent pets depend on their owners to ensure they lead the best life possible. Because they are incapable of caring for themselves, they trust their owners to make the right decisions regarding their health. If you are a pet owner, this information regarding joint health for your dog may be brand new. Not everyone is aware of potential risks and risk factors for dogs. Maybe today you’ll commit to learning all you about the health of a dog and begin to take steps to ensure joint health for your dog.



Douglas

Kayye Nynne asked:


Throughout history the Greyhound has been the darling dog breed of royalty and nobility. From the ancient Egyptians, who often mummified and buried favored dogs with their owners; to the English nobility who enacted a law banning so fine a beast from being owned by mere commoners. Even the Bedouin (who as devout Muslims shun dogs in general for supposedly being unclean) since time immemorial have so revered the Greyhound (or its derivative or ancestor) that not only was contact permitted, they even allowed the consumption of game caught by such dogs.

Fast forward to today and it is hard to believe that this dog breed once held such an esteemed position. Currently over 100,000 Greyhound dogs are destroyed each year worldwide, as a result of the cruel sport of dog racing!

In times long past a messenger carrying both good news and bad always supplied the good news first in order to lessen the effect of the bad news and thereby increase his chances of living to see another day (hence the expression: Don’t shoot the messenger!) So borrowing from that tactful approach, this article shall address the Greyhound’s glorious past first before covering its dismal present:

The Greyhound is a dog that stands apart from the other dog breeds not only for the fact that it happens to be the speed champion of the dog world but also because it holds an unparalleled array of records which include:

1. The fastest dog in the world across short distances: the Greyhound dog can attain speeds in excess of 40 mph (64km/h)

2. It has the longest stride of any dog breed whilst it is in full flight. One Greyhound dog is on record of having covered a distance of 30 feet (9.14m) in a single leap. The Greyhound’s sprint is described as a double flight gait which involves the dog at some point having all of its feet off the ground. When a Greyhound dog is sprinting it propels itself first with its hind legs and then momentarily lands on its front feet before cantilevering off those while reaching forward with its hind feet (at which point for an instant all four feet are off the ground).

This double-flight gait is extremely fast but also very unstable which explains the many injuries that befall racing Greyhounds. The Cheetah which is the fastest mammal on earth has a somewhat similar sprint pattern which also entails the Cheetah’s four limbs being fully off the ground at some point. The Greyhound however is no match for the Cheetah which can attain speeds of 70 mph (114 km/h) and maintain that speed for 3.5 miles!

Though the Greyhound cannot match the Cheetah’s speed, it obviously is no slow coach either and the reason why this dog breed can attain such speeds (other than its obvious aerodynamic-enhanced morphological structure and muscle mass) is because it packs so much hemoglobin in its blood. Those elevated levels of hemoglobin ensure the transfer of more oxygen to the tissues which also bestows the Greyhound dog’s blood with a sludge-like quality (thick blood). If the human heart were to attempt pumping such a thick mixture of blood it would most likely go into failure.

3. The Greyhound boasts the longest documented history of any dog breed. Ancient drawings and records place the Greyhound dog as a distinctive breed over 6000 years ago.

4. The Greyhound is the most expensive dog breed; it is not unusual for champion racing Greyhounds to command a price tag in excess of $70,000!

5. The Greyhound dog is the one breed that has been most favored by royalty and the aristocracy throughout all of dog history. In fact so much so was this dog breed viewed as the epitome of canine excellence that a law was passed in England in 1014—part of the Forest Laws—which categorically forbade commoners to own a Greyhound dog! Those persons other than nobility who were permitted to own a Greyhound, such as Freemen, could only do so, so long as the dog was deliberately maimed if they lived within 10 miles of a royal forest.

Interestingly enough, royal households used to employ select dog-mutilators whose job was to rove around the countryside ensuring that nobody not born of noble birth or titled by the king was in illegal possession of a greyhound dog that was not lamed! However, as the acreage of the great forests dwindled, and with the rising importance of agricultural and domestic livestock food sources, the function of the Greyhound dog declined correspondingly! Even so the Greyhound still remained the favorite dog of the landed gentry especially as the popularity of hare coursing grew. By the 1800s hare coursing had become a favored pastime of the upper classes in England.

Greyhound Dog: Origins & History

The Greyhound dog is evidently a breed of antiquity stretching back thousands of years. There are several references from many ancient cultures citing the Greyhound throughout history. Although many dog books note the Greyhound dog as having originated in Britain this is very unlikely. It would be more accurate to concede that the Greyhound in its modern form most closely resembles the dog that was selectively gene-trait refined according to English standards.

Historical data tends to suggest that the Greyhound evolved from early Sighthounds that existed in ancient Egypt. Paintings, decorations, and other artifacts from early Egyptian culture celebrate a dog very similar in appearance to the Greyhound. Indeed several pharaohs are known to have owned Greyhound-looking dogs. Some of the pharaohs included: Cleopatra (yes the seductive femme fatale), Tutankhamen, Queen Hatshepsut, to name but a few. The Greyhound also so happens to be the only dog breed to be mentioned by name in the Bible (Proverbs 30:29-31, King James Version). Ancient Greek and Roman mythology is rife with tales describing Greyhound-like dogs.

It is not unreasonable to speculate that the ancient Greeks attained their first Greyhound specimens (or at least its progenitor) from Egyptian merchants. In Greek mythology their gods were often portrayed with Greyhounds. The Romans in turn probably first stumbled across the Greyhound via their interaction with the Greeks. However it is equally possible the Romans got their original hounds from the Celts, seeing as the well regarded Roman authors, Ovid and Arrian often referred to the Greyhound as a Celt Hound. However, whatever the Greyhound’s origins, what is known is that since its earliest affiliation with humans, this dog breed has wowed mankind the world over with its speed and agility, most notably through the sport of coursing. Hare coursing is an old sport practiced since the time of the Romans who probably exported it to Britain when they invaded.

Strangely enough it appears that the Romans were much more sporting than their modern dog-racing counterparts, with respect to the welfare of both the dogs and hares involved in the coursing event, as amply illustrated by the following excerpt written by Roman Flavius Arrianus (Arrian) in 124 AD: “The true sportsman does not take out his dogs to destroy the hares, but for the sake of the course and the contest between the dogs and the hares, and is glad if the hare escapes…whoever courses with greyhounds should neither slip them near the hare, nor more than a brace (two) at a time.” Simply put, no more than two dogs were to be used in the chase and they were not to be released too close to the hare!

The Many-Named Dog

Across the breadth of time the Greyhound dog has been designated almost as many names as the number of years for which the breed has existed (okay…I’ll admit that’s a bit of an exaggeration but you get the point). In the English language alone, the Greyhound has had at least 50 names. Unsurprisingly there has been considerable debate concerning the meaning of the various names:

1. Grewhound; the “Grew” portion of the word meaning “Greek.” A similar but variant school of thought postulates that the “Grew” was actually “Graius” which still means Greek; again these old English names tend to lend credence that the Greyhound originated elsewhere other than Britain.

2. Greyhounds are certainly anything but grey so it is highly unlikely that the word ever reflected the breed’s color. Some believe that the “grey” in Greyhound was once “grei” which meant beautiful.

3. Great Hound; another school of thought speculates that the Greyhound was once known as the Greathound (the name evidently reflecting the dog’s exalted status in gentrified society) but as time progressed the term somehow mutated into “greyhound.”

The few examples above are a minuscule sampling of the various names the Greyhound has been called at one time or another during history in some variation of the English language.

The Harsh Unforgiving World Of Greyhound Dog Racing

It truly is hard to imagine how so exalted a dog breed could end up where it is today—slaughtered in the thousands each year. This is all the more shocking when one considers that at some point in Greyhound dog history it was a crime punishable by death to kill one (during the reign of King Canute). However currently each year thousands upon thousands of Greyhounds are destroyed, a good number before they’ve even attained the tender age of 2 years!

The reason for this mass slaughter can be defined in 3 words: Greyhound Dog Racing! Every year the Greyhound dog racing industry breeds several thousand dogs, far more than the number that get to compete. The reason for this over breeding—ambitious Greyhound dog breeders looking for that elusive but ever so lucrative champion dog racer! The dogs that don’t make the cut are typically destroyed or in some cases actually subjected to a fate worse than death!

The Greyhound dog racing industry certainly pulls no punches with respect to the maltreatment of animals. Since the inception of modern dog racing around the 1920s, the Greyhound (and affiliated industry animals that act as live bait) has suffered unimaginable cruelty; in this industry there is no reprieve or second chance and the vast majority of dogs never get to live anywhere near their expected life expectancy! Instead most dogs are befallen by anyone of the following fates:

1. Killed;

2. Experimented upon as a laboratory animal; the Greyhound’s superb physiology makes it a prime lab candidate for cardiovascular research;

3. Shipped abroad to countries such as China where animal cruelty laws are extremely lax (to say the least); and let’s not forget that dogs often end up on the dinner table there; and

4. Used as food fodder in commercial dog feed (euthanized pets are commonly recycled as commercial dog chow).

A very small percentage of lucky dogs eventually make the transition from Shelters/Rescue Home, to permanent adoption! One need only conduct a cursory search through online Greyhound Adoption centers to see just how bad the problem really is. And perhaps the most tragic aspect of this tragedy is that the Greyhound dog truly is a sweet-tempered and loving dog that some have described as the “speediest couch potato!”

Greyhound Dog Breed



Kimberly

Phil Donahoe asked:


A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct!

But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

- Different aggression types -

There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

- Aggression towards strangers

- Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right?

Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.

- Aggression towards strangers -

What is it?

It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)

Why does it happen?

There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?

When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary.

It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.

First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).

In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).

Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.

Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.

- Aggression towards family members -

There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:

- He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).

This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.

- He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.

What’s resource guarding?

Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.

All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.

Why does it happen?

It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc).

To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.

This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively.

Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)

Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.

To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.

- If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.

- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively

- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day).

Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?

All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits.

When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.

Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.

Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?

In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.

Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.

The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats.

Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop.

Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.

Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)



Brent

Sylvia Dickens asked:


Adopting a dog? Consider it’s personality. Personalities among humans can clash and so it is between dogs and humans. By knowing the dog’s personality, you can avoid headaches later on.

Knowing a puppy’s personality before you commit to buying or adopting him will help you to make a wise choice in selecting the right puppy for you. A personality test will assist you in determining why he doesn’t accomplish certain disciplinary objectives.

Checking your puppy’s personality starts with understanding his breed, because many of his characteristics will be inherited. If you don’t know the specific breed, try to determine what breed cross he might be and refer to those personalities to see if they fit.

There are some excellent books in the library to help you figure out how your particular breed of dog thinks and reacts. Alternatively, you can ask a breeder or your vet.

As long as your puppy is over seven weeks of age, you can get a good result from a personality test. The main personality types are responsive, strong willed, energetic, timid, easygoing and aggressive although you’re likely to see a mixture, depending on the mixture of breeds and the circumstances. For instance, a dog might be easygoing around the family, but aggressive around strangers. This is common in dogs that are protective, rather than social and friendly.

Friendliness Test

The friendliness test will determine if your dog is a socializer.

Take the puppy into a quiet area, free of other distractions and whine like a young puppy or talk to him in a friendly, affectionate voice. You’re trying to see what kind of response you get. If he cocks his head to one side, becomes alert and happy, then he has a responsive personality.

If he ignores you initially and then runs around, jumps all over you and gives you friendly barks and nips, he is a high-energy dog.

A strong willed dog will become alert and will away again barking and eventually come to you. A timid dog will whine back and bark before crawling up to you with his tail down and his ears pulled back.

An easy going dog will show be more laid back and seem not to care. He is quick to lose interest in your whining, most likely because he’s decided it really doesn’t matter to him.

If the dog lunges at you and growls with his ears and tail standing straight up (rather than curled or dropped and relaxed) he is an aggressive dog with dominant qualities. If he barks, backs away and crouches down yet remains defensive, he is showing fear aggression. Fear aggression is common in dogs that have been abused.

You can do other tests as well. You can test a dog’s sensitivity to noises, how he reacts to discipline, and how tolerant he is to pain and discomfort.

Sound Test

For the sound test, put some pennies into a tin can and shake it to see how your dog responds. Keep in mind that dogs have sensitive ears and are able to hear sounds humans can’t. This test could reveal that your puppy might have hearing problems or that he is “gun shy”.

Move away from distractions and, from half a dozen feet distance from the dog, shake the can to make a noise. Try to hide the can behind your back as seeing it might clue him in to what’s causing the noise. We want the noise to be unexpected.

A responsive dog will perk up when he hears the noise and become inquisitive about its source. If you had rolled the can on the floor to make the noise, he would see it as a toy and begin playing with it.

A high-energy dog will respond to the noise, but will become easily distracted. He might even bark at the noise as if trying to scare it away.

Shy dogs will back away and lower his ears and tail while raising the hair on the back of his neck. This is a submissive posture. It’s common for shy or timid dogs to run and hide from loud noises.

An easygoing dog will saunter up to the noise, check it out but will soon return to whatever he was doing.

An aggressive dog backs away, growls, curls his lips and will make direct eye contact with you as if in defiance. A fear aggressive dog, on the other hand, will crouch and take a submissive stance. Such dogs often will urinate as a sign of submission.

Discipline Test

The discipline test can be helpful when you think about how easy it might be to train this particular dog. Understanding this aspect of his temperament can be useful in determining the methods you’ll need to use during the training process.

Be careful when issuing this test as an aggressive dog might try to attack you or bite you. If you suspect that the dog is aggressive, you might want to skip the first version of this test. Do not continue this particular test if the dog demonstrates that he is fearful.

Version 1: Raise your hand and pretend to hit the dog, but don’t actually hit him. If he shows curiosity and stays happy or ignores you, he has either a responsive, easygoing or a high-energy personality. If he cowers, flinches, ducks his head or wets, this is a timid, shy and insecure dog.

A dominant dog will growl, curl his lips, snarl and perhaps bite. If this happens, it’s best to stop the test for your own safety. A fear aggressive dog will respond in a similar way, trying to bite as a way to protect himself. A dog that responds this way, in all likelihood, has been abused or mistreated in the past.

Tolerance test

This test will be beneficial if you have children around. By knowing how much your dog can tolerate, you will be better informed whether this dog is a good choice for you and your family. This test isn’t so much to discover his personality as it is to determine how much discomfort your dog can tolerate.

A dog that is pain intolerant might be suffering from a disease such as arthritis or Hip Displasia, from previous mistreatment or simply from its breeding. Children, for example, tend to like pulling a dog’s tail or ears or riding the dog, which can be painful to the animal.

There are three areas you can test (tail, toes, skin), but for this article, we’ll discuss the tail, since that’s an easy target for many children and even some adults.

Keep in mind that you don’t want to hurt the dog. Pull his tail gently and see how your dog reacts.

If he turns and mouths your hand without really trying to bite and even becomes playful, it’s evident this puppy has a safe tolerance level. If the dog tries to stop you or tolerates it for a short time and tries to move away, he has an average tolerance level.

If the dog yelps, growls and snaps while trying to get away, he has a poor pain tolerance. If he bites and growls, the dog has very little or no tolerance whatsoever. If you have children, you might want to choose a different dog, or teach your children not to pull the dog’s tail.

Knowing a dog’s personality and temperament before he comes to your home is helpful in making a wise decision in choosing a suitable pet for your family.



Eva

Jane Simmons asked:


Browse any grocery store or pet food store to buy Dog Food and you will agree that trying to decide on what is best for your dog is an exhausting task. Scanning the shelves of products available, you are bombarded by foods extolling different health benefits as well as a huge range of prices. The pet food industry is a multi-billion dollar industry and pet food manufacturers are eagerly marketing for every dollar. Not only are they marketing us to death, but also developing new products to put in front of us. Those products include “dry”, “canned”, “semi-moist” and health targeted products such as “senior”, “premium” and “gourmet.

So which food is best for your dog? Finding that out takes time and research. The truth is, the best dog food is the one that meets your dog’s nutritional requirements, which vary based upon the dog’s age, breed, body weight, genetics, and amount of activity… and one that fits within your budget. It is definitely worth consulting a veterinarian to get the best advice and nutrition plan for your dog. But for those of you that want to take matters in your own hands, you will find detailed below the most important things you will need to know.

Dog Food Labels

Susan Powter comes to mind when thinking about food labels. Remember this iconic infomercial star with the coined phrase “Stop the Insanity”? Her gospel about nutrition and the importance of studying the ingredients on the side of the packaging to distinguish the various elements and how each plays its role in overall nutrition, was novel at that time. It seems that this was the beginning of the mass movement to better nutrition, label reading and choosing products more carefully.

With all the recent pet food recalls, millions of dog owners have extended this scrutiny to selecting a dog food. But we can’t pull from the Susan Powter gospel for this, because dog foods are manufactured under a series of different standards and regulations, put forth by the AAFCO ( The Association of American Feed Control Officials ). There are special labeling requirements that require all dog foods to have certain information on the label. So, in order that we can all make a proper choice for our dogs, we must know how to read and understand the dog food label.

The AAFCO puts out an official publication, on a yearly basis, detailing special requirements for dog food. Among all the different requirements, they request all dog food manufacturers to adhere to label regulations and must include on the package the following:

# Product Name

# Guaranteed Analysis

# Nutritional Adequacy Statement

# Feeding Directions

The Name Game

When shopping for dog food, what is the first thing you look at? The product name, of course. We’ve all walked down the pet food aisle and seen the product names jump out as us…calling us. Displayed in bold type and fancy fonts such descriptions as “With Chicken”, “All Life Stages”, “Duck Entree”, “95% Beef”, “Natural Dog Food”. But what do these descriptions really mean? Is it just fancy marketing? The AAFCO has set forth rules that dictate how ingredients can be used in a product name.

95% Rule

# Applies to most canned dog food that consists mostly of meat, poultry or fish.

# Specifies that at least 95% of the dog food must be the named ingredient on the label, not counting water and preservatives added for processing.

# Counting water, the product must still consist of 70% of the product.

# If the name consists of a combination of ingredients, the two combined must equal 95%.

# The rule only applies to ingredients of animal origin, so grains and vegetables cannot be used as part of the 95% rule. So if the product name was “Beef and Brown Rice”, the product would still have to consist of 95% beef.

25% or “Dinner” Rule

# This rule applies to many canned as well as dry dog foods.

# If the named ingredient, or a combination of ingredients, found on the label consists of 25% of the weight (but less than 95%) excluding water for sufficient processing.

# The name must include a descriptive term, such as “Dinner”, “Platter”, “Entree”, or “Formula”.

# If more than one ingredient is in the name, they must both total 25% combined, with each named ingredient equalling or exceeding 3%.

3% or “With” Rule

# Originally, this rule was intended to apply only to ingredients highlighted on the package, outside of the product name.

# It allows manufacturers to highlight minor ingredients.

# The ingredient must have at least 3% added.

# The rule now allows manufacturers to use the term “With” in the product name.

Be careful when reading the dog food label because “Beef Dog Food” and “Dog Food with Beef” are not the same. The first must have 95% beef, whereas the latter only needs 3%.

Flavor Rule

# A percentage of any one ingredient isn’t required.

# The word “Flavor” must appear on the label in the same font size and color as the ingredient name.

# The flavor might be the corresponding ingredient, but more often than not, it’s another substance such as “meal”, “by-product”, a “stock” or a “broth”.

Guaranteed Analysis

The guaranteed analysis is the next component that needs to be on a dog food label. It serves as a general guide as to what the percentages of the main nutrients and other items are in the total makeup of the product. At the bare minimum, the guaranteed analysis must consist of the following:

# Minimum Percentage of Protein

# Minimum Percentage of Fat

# Maximum Percentage of Fiber

# Maximum Percentage of Moisture

Go ahead and look at your label at this point. See it there? Good. Now, if you have a can of dog food and a package of dry dog food at your disposal, take a look at both labels. After careful analysis you might want to ask, “Hey Michael, I notice when looking at both labels that the dry dog food has way more nutrients. I thought canned food had way more protein…what gives?”

Keep this in mind, as I have noticed this as well, that the amounts of protein and other nutrients stated on the labels appear to be less for canned versus dry, but looks are deceiving. The reason? Differences in moisture content. Canned dog food, on average, consists of 75% water, while dry dog food contains about 10%. So to make a true comparison of the nutrient levels, we need to put both types on the same playing field. To do this, we will be converting both products to dry matter.

To convert the nutrients, we need to dust off our calculators that we last used in high school, in order to perform a little math. (And you said to your math teacher, “I’ll never use this in the real world!”), But I digress. Here’s the formula we will be using: % Guarantee divided by % Dry Matter multiplied by 100

Example In one corner, we have a canned dog food that has a guaranteed analysis consisting of 9% protein, 6% fat, 1.5% fiber and 78% moisture. In the other corner, we have a dry dog food that has a guaranteed analysis consisting of 24% protein, 14.5% fat, 4% fiber and 10% moisture.

# Dry matter of canned: 100 - 78 = 22

# Dry matter of dry: 100 - 10 = 90

# Now we can do our calculations

Canned Dog Food

# Protein: 9 / 22 x 100 = 40.9%

# Fat: 6 / 22 x 100 = 27%

# Fiber: 1.5 / 22 x 100 = 6.8%

Dry Dog Food

# Protein: 24 / 90 x 100 = 26.6%

# Fat: 14.5 / 90 x 100 = 16.1%

# Fiber: 4 / 90 x 100 = 4.4%

So after were done, do you notice the protein? The canned dog food actually has 14% more protein.

Nutritional Adequacy Statement

You’ve seen it on the labels…”Complete”, “Balanced”, “For All Lifestages”, among others. But how are these claims substantiated? What rules are in place to regulate such verbage? The answer is set forth, once again, by the AAFCO.

The Nutritional Adequacy Statement is required and is one of the most important aspects of a dog food label. This statement assures us that a product meets all of a dog’s nutritional requirements. So how is a dog food substantiated for nutritional adequacy? They must use one of two ways:

Calculations

# The method whereby the dog food contains ingredients formulated to provide levels of nutrients that meet an established profile

# Calculations estimate the amount of nutrients either by an average nutrient content of ingredients or results of laboratory tests using standard chemical analysis.

# If it meets the profile set by the AAFCO, the label will carry a statement as follows: “(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO (Dog) Food Nutrient Profiles for (specific life stage).”

Feeding Trials

# The product (or a similar product made by the same company) has been tested in dogs under strict guidelines and found to provide proper nutrition

# If it meets the profile set by the AAFCO, the label will carry a statement as follows: “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (name of product) provides complete and balanced nutrition for (specific life stage).”

The Nutritional Adequacy Statement will also include a statement about which life stage(s) the dog food is suitable for. Two profiles are used. Below is a definition of each and additional information about other profiles:

# Growth/Lactation - A product intended for growing puppies, for pregnant dogs or lactating females.

# Maintenance - Suitable for any adult, non-reproducing dog of normal activity level, but may not be sufficient for a growing, reproducing, or hard working dog.

# Terms like “Senior” or “Formulated for Large Breed Adults” means the dog food meets the requirements for the Maintenance profile, but nothing more.

# A product that doesn’t fit within the two profiles above must state that “This product is intended for intermittent or supplemental feeding,” except if it is conspicuously identified as a snack or treat.

Feeding Guidelines

Feeding guidelines are very broad, to say the least. At a minimum, they should include instruction like “Feed ___ Cups Per ___ Pounds.” But keep in mind that these instructions are very rough estimates. Most people feed their dogs way too much. In fact, 25% of all dog’s are overweight…causing problems such as:

# Diabetes

# Arthritis

# Heart and Liver Problems

# Bladder Cancer

You should treat the guidelines as a place to start. Talk with your veterinarian about your dog food and how much to feed. They understand that nutritional requirements vary and, by knowing your dog, they will be able to recommend a feeding schedule based upon several factors including:

# Age

# Body Weight

# Breed

# Genetics

# Activity Level



Marion

Ty Brown asked:


Human beings are bound by certain social rules and etiquettes. Dogs are too, however, their rules are entirely different from our rules. For example, it is rare that one person meets another person and within seconds begins a violent fight. This behavior, however, is very common with our canine friends. Introducing two dogs in public is an art and an exercise in training and control. You must be prepared if you are going to avoid not only dog fights, but if you are to steer clear of dog illnesses and other problems when introducing two dogs.

When I have my dogs in public the first rule I live by is ‘assume the worst’. What I mean by this is that I assume that most other dogs out there are ill-behaved and not dog friendly. I know this sounds extreme and perhaps rude but honestly, am I that far off? If you assume this position you will be correct a majority of the time. Most dogs in public are poorly trained and poorly socialized and shouldn’t be counted on to automatically get along with your dog.

So how do you go about introducing two dogs with such assumptions? The short answer is, I don’t. When I am in public, generally speaking, I keep my dogs separate from other dogs I encounter. Do I know if the approaching dog is current with his shots, do I know if the other dog is dog aggressive? The answer is no. Why would I introduce my dog into such an unknown situation where he could get injured from a fight or sick from an illness?

The next assumption I typically make is ‘assume the other dog owner knows nothing about dogs’. When I approach another dog owner on the street or in a park I often find that they are eager to have their dog meet both my dog and me. I often hear comforting words such as, “Oh, he’s fine with other dogs,” or, “It’s ok, he’s friendly.” Well the truth is that maybe their dog has been friendly with a few dogs but who is to say that their dog will be friendly with my dog? I was once walking with a client and their dog down a path in the woods when along came a beautiful Airedale Terrier. As we approached the owner of the terrier called out, “He’s friendly!” following which the dog immediately proceeded to lunge at the leash while barking quite aggressively, obviously looking for a fight. Both I and my client’s dog barely missed being bit as the other owner was nearly pulled over. Ever since this experience, and many similar ones, I have realized that I can’t trust the judgment of other dog owners.

As a result of this style of thinking I religiously avoid dog parks. They are the bane of the dog world and should be avoided at all costs. They are a recipe for disease and fighting. You would be wise to avoid these settings.

Am I being too much of an extremist? No, I don’t think so. In doing this I am almost guaranteeing a safe outing everywhere I go. You may be asking, “But what about socialization? Shouldn’t my dog learn to get along with other dogs?” The answer is yes, but only under controlled settings.

I am very careful about the children that my young daughter meets. I try to avoid having her meet kids who are bullies or sick. Why wouldn’t I do the same for my dog? Whenever I allow my dogs to meet new dogs I do so only when the situation is controlled.

So what is a controlled situation? It could be a variety of settings, but typically a controlled situation is one where I am familiar with the other dog owner, familiar with the other dog and feel that said owner can control said dog. A controlled situation finds both dogs on leash and under control. When introducing two dogs I am always confident that I can control my dog so I need to make sure I partner up with someone else who can also control their dog. With all of these ducks in a row I am ready to introduce my dog to the other dog.

As I said, both dogs are on leash so the first step is allowing the other dogs to be near each other to see initial reactions. I will have my dog about 10 feet from the other dog. If either of the two begins to show aggression I know that maybe this is not a potential friendship. If they are okay at this distance I proceed. One dog remains stationary, preferably in the ‘sit’ command, while the other dog is walked by at a distance of 5-6 feet. The moving dog is then asked to sit while the other walks 5-6 away. Everybody still okay? Good, let’s keep going. Now I put my dog in the heel position on my left hand side while the other owner puts her dog on her left hand side. From here we walk past each other head on. By walking head on with our dogs on our left hand sides and under control the dogs are still separated by our bodies and still haven’t come in contact with each other. At this point, however, each dog has seen the other from a variety of angles and from a variety of potentially threatening and non-threatening positions. If they are still okay you can keep going. Obviously if they have shown aggression at any point you should stop the session.

The next step is the actual introduction. Each owner should approach the other, each dog should be preferably in the heel position. At about 3-4 feet from each other the owners should have their dogs sit by their sides. If everyone is still all right the owners should release the dogs from the sit position and slowly allow the dogs to start sniffing. After a few seconds each owner leads his or her dog away from each other and walks in the opposite direction. Do a U-turn and return to each others proximity. Come back to a halt again 3-4 feet away from each other and repeat the process. Do this several times, each time allowing the dogs to sniff each other for a bit longer period. At this stage it is important to look for tell-tale signs. If the hair on the back of one dog goes straight up lead that dog away and go even slower with the introductions. Watch for other signs such as the lips being lifted, growling, or other very tense behavior.

It is important to keep your dogs on leash. If a fight were to break out both owners could immediately drag each dog apart from each other. If when you introduce two dogs like this and everyone is still okay you can gradually give the dogs more and more freedom and allow them to play even more.

As with all dog training, use common sense. Watch for signs in your dog. Introducing two dogs can be fun, but you must always exercise caution.



Ben